Vienna Day Two
Christmas actually is a big deal in Austria, of course, though their Christmas kitsch is a good deal less annoying than ours. Mozart is everywhere -- he was not especially well-liked by the Viennese in his lifetime (Prague was more enthusiastic), and lately he's been reduced to selling candy.
There is a lot of reactionary statuary here: Maria Theresia, Franz Josef, et. al. The beautiful St. Stefan's Cathedral has a memorial (in Serbo-Croatian) in honor of the Croatian Nazi "martyr" Archbishop Stepinac -- a muted but disturbing counterpoint (for those who know) to the official Monument to the Victims of War & Fascism a few blocks away.